K9 Decoys And Aggression: A Manual For Training... -

Decoy work is inherently dangerous. You are inviting a high-drive animal to bite you.

Once the dog has gripped, the decoy should provide a "counter." This is a slight push back into the dog’s mouth. This encourages the dog to bite harder and deeper to hold their ground, rather than "chewing" or "front-flicking." 4. Working the "Out" and Post-Bite Behavior

Using deep, guttural tones or shouting can "push" a dog. K9 decoys and aggression: a manual for training...

Aggression training is useless if the dog cannot be "called off." The decoy plays a massive role in teaching the (the release command).

Always inspect buckles, hidden sleeves, and leg guards. A gear failure during a high-aggression session can lead to a "real" bite that can ruin a dog's training or cause serious injury. Decoy work is inherently dangerous

The decoy must present a clear, consistent target—whether it’s the forearm, the bicep, or the leg. Unclear targeting leads to "dirty" biting or accidental injuries.

Direct eye contact is a powerful challenge. A decoy who stares down a young dog might crush their confidence, while a decoy who looks away "gives" the win to the dog. This encourages the dog to bite harder and

The decoy is a , not a punching bag. Your job is to read the dog’s eyes, their ears, and the tension in their body. When you feel the dog's confidence waver, you must "die" and let them win. When you feel them becoming cocky or sloppy, you must apply the pressure necessary to sharpen their focus.